Deck Lines:
Deck lines are cut from thick latigo leather, which looks great, works great, and holds up in salt water as well as can be expected of leather.
These toggles are made from black locust, which, ironically, sports a beautiful yellow color. Its also very, very tough, rot resistant, and resistant to splitting due to its unique interlocking grain.
The leather gives some, and the skin gives more, allowing one to firmly hold a paddle, small water bottle, or a bilge pump, etc. Adjust the tension by sliding the toggles.
But the greatest thing about these deck lines is their ability, partnered with a Greenland paddle, to create an outrigger. The boat is incredibly stable in this position! They also offer a rock solid handhold, unlike bungee cord:
Seat:
My claim to fame. Building a kayak this way has been done by countless others before before me, but the only parts I can call truly mine are the hull shape, and this seat. I sew up a scrap of leftover nylon skin, then thread dowels behind the ribs and through the loops. Adjust the tension of the seat by using smaller or larger dowels, or just add another dowel.
Also notice the spacing of the ribs for comfort. This seat is very, very comfortable!
Foot braces and foot box:
These are Harmony Slidelock foot braces. Simple, strong and easily adjusted. Notice the adjustment of frame spacing for foot comfort.
A closed cell camping pad, cut to the contours of the boat, slides in over the seat and ribs. It provides comfort, insulation from 50 degree water, and helps keep the kayak clean. (pic to come)
Lashing:
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| Lashing keel to rib. It is leatherworkers' artificial sinew. |
Rub strip:
Once again, black locust, and easily replaceable. This takes the brunt of the abuse when dragging the boat up the beach.
Carry Straps:
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| Thick leather is sewed together, then wrapped with #18 tarred seine twine. |
